CHUMLEY'S 1: The Building Shell

INTRO
It’s been a long journey but here we are at last. We actually get to use all that knowledge and MAKE something!. And if you haven’t read the TOOLS section and the METHODS sections on SPACKLING, CHIMNEY, and SHINGLING, do so now. I’ll wait. It will save you tons of time if you are already familiar with the processes and don’t have to refer to them as you go along. As a note, they were put into separate sections so I can refer to them during future projects.

Remember, this is just how Darrell Empey does it. (Your name here) may decide that all this dealing with MDF is too much of a pain. OK, just use Foamcore. And maybe just dab on the spackling between the timbers instead of toweling it on. Do what works for (your name here).

So here we go…

Lord Froglips has asked me to make a small cottage for his vassal, Chumley. Follow along as we construct this basic pseudo-Medieval building.

HERE’S THE BIG PAYOFF AT THE END...

I use standard tools, glues, craft paints, terrain supplies, and previously finished details from my bits box. There are a lot of steps but none of this is difficult, it just takes time.

Here are the building and roof pieces I cut on my scroll saw (see TOOLS). I use 1/8 inch Multi-density Fiberboard (MDF) for the shell, roof, and base.
The roof pieces are 5-¾” x 3-3/8”.
The ridge piece is cut from a 3/4” thick piece of shelving stock at an angle to match the front/back peak (photo below). To me, a 45 degree peak angle doesn’t look right. It is 4-7/8 inches long.
The interior supports are ¼ inch square stock, 1-15/16 inches long (for 1/16” floor clearance).
The building end pieces are 4 inches wide with 2 inch sides and 4-1/2” to the peak.
The base (not shown) is optional and discussed later.

The odd roof peak angle.

The shell gets glued together with wood glue. Note how the ends align with the sides and that clearance is left for a 1/16 inch thick floor I’ll be making.

Next, the timbering is glued on. I use 1/16 inch sheet balsa cut into 3/16 inch strips cut to length (see TOOLS). When dry, the upper timbers on the sides are sanded to match the roof angle.

For interest, timber cracks and knotholes were made with an awl/nail, then tiny pin holes are drilled near the top corners of the windows/door areas for alignment of the inside windows and door later.

NEXT: Filling between the timbers, painting, windows, doors, floor.